When you're starting out with beading, thread choice isn't something that usually gets explained up front, but it makes a real difference in how your finished piece turns out. Here's a rundown of different beading thread, what they're made of, and what each one is best suited for.
Fishing Line Style Thread
Threads like Fireline are made from braided or fused synthetic fibers, similar in structure to actual fishing line. That construction makes it stiff, strong, and resistant to stretching or fraying.
This stiffness is what makes it the better choice for stitches like peyote, brick stitch, and square stitch. These stitches need consistent tension to keep the beadwork even, and a stiffer thread holds that structure in place.
It's also why I use fishing line style thread in my beginner flat-stitch beading kits. It comes ready to use right out of the package, with no extra prep needed, which is one less thing to think about when you're already learning a new stitch.
Nylon Thread
Nylon thread (Nymo and Miyuki are common examples) is a single-strand fiber rather than braided, so it's softer and has a bit of stretch to it.
That flexibility makes nylon the better choice for fringe. Fringe needs to move and drape naturally, and a stiffer thread would leave it looking rigid instead of flowing the way it should.
The downside is that nylon tangles and frays more easily than fishing line style thread, especially over longer lengths. When I first started beading, a lot of the beginner kits I received came with nylon thread, and I'd get frustrated with the constant knots and tangling. I didn't know at the time that nylon thread is meant to be conditioned with beeswax before use. Running the thread through a block of beeswax smooths the fibers, adds a bit of stiffness, and cuts down on tangling significantly.
Polyester and Cotton
I haven't used polyester thread myself, but I know some beaders prefer it. It's available at most fabric stores, which makes it more accessible if you don't have a bead shop nearby, and it comes in a wider range of colours than typical beading thread, which can be useful for edging your beadwork. On that note, a small tip if you're working with white thread and want it to match your project: a Sharpie can be used to colour it.
Cotton thread is one to avoid. It's not an issue while you're beading, but it becomes a problem when finishing your work. Most beaders singe the end of their thread to seal it after tying off, and synthetic threads like nylon, fishing line, and polyester melt into a small sealed point when you do this. Cotton burns instead of melting, so it won't seal properly.
Summary
| Fishing Line Style | Nylon | Polyester | Cotton | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Made of | Braided/fused synthetic fibers | Single-strand synthetic fiber | Synthetic fiber | Natural fiber |
| Feel | Stiff, stable | Soft, slightly stretchy | Some give, less stiff than cotton | Rigid, little to no stretch |
| Best for | Flat-stitch, peyote, brick, and square | Fringe, flat-stitch | Edging your beadwork | Not recommended |
| Watch for | — | Tangling/fraying — condition with beeswax | — | Burns instead of melting when singed |
Flat stitch work calls for fishing line style thread, fringe calls for nylon, and nylon thread should always be conditioned with beeswax before use. Polyester is a workable alternative if you want more colour options or easier access, but cotton thread isn't well suited to beadwork.